Cosmetics: What is the "dupe" phenomenon and why is it dangerous for your health?

"Dupe alert!" On social media, particularly on TikTok, hundreds of thousands of videos of young women are highlighting their latest finds as "dupes" of existing cosmetic products. Foundation, lipstick, moisturizer, or sunscreen: they claim to achieve the same results as the original, for more than half the price.

A cousin of counterfeiting, "the phenomenon is more subtle and sometimes difficult to identify," says Xavier Guéant, director of legal affairs at the Federation of Beauty Companies (Febea), which issued an "alert" on World Anti-Counterfeiting Day, June 4. But these products, "increasing in number" and "increasingly popular among young consumers," represent "a health risk," he says.

The federation's target: products sold on e-commerce platforms outside the European Union, mainly Asian ones like Temu, Shein, or AliExpress, and "manufactured outside any regulatory framework for hygiene or quality control." According to a C-Ways study conducted for Febea in March 2025, 31% of French people had purchased a dupe in the previous twelve months, but 96% of them were unaware of the risks involved.

"In France, the system is robust, but as soon as we stray from this framework and source from sites where there are no controls, we expose ourselves to multiple dangers," explains Dr. Stéphane Pirnay, toxicology expert and director of the company Expertox. In addition to the allergen risk, "poor quality" products may contain "toxic" substances, which are prohibited or exceed authorized limits, which can represent "real health risks," he insists.

The toxicologist also warns of a chemical risk, as some tested products regularly contain "heavy metals" or "phthalates," chemicals considered endocrine disruptors. Another hazard identified: an infectious risk, as some products studied may contain numerous pathogens. "We're truly astonished to see all the things we can find in counterfeits in general: soil, stones, excrement, bird feathers," lists Dr. Pirnay.

Laurence Coiffard, a pharmacy professor at the Nantes University specializing in cosmetology, took an interest in the sunscreens sold on these platforms. With her team, she analyzed two counterfeit products claiming SPF 50+, as well as a few dupes. The result: "None of these products actually contained UV filters," she reveals. "They therefore provide no protection against UV rays, and there is a great danger in using them," she warns, even though sun exposure is the leading cause of skin cancer.

For her, sites like Temu or AliExpress are "the ultimate sales niche" for counterfeit or dupe products "where they can reign supreme," because they are marketed without meeting European regulatory requirements.

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